Before you go

Visas and e-visa

Citizens of ECOWAS countries enter without a visa. Most other nationalities, including the EU, UK, US, Canada and Brazil, apply online for an e-visa at the government portal before departure. Visas on arrival are no longer issued.

Three options are offered: 30 days single entry, 30 days multiple entry, and 90 days multiple entry. Fees were around 50, 75 and 100 euros at our last check. Processing takes from two working days to a week, so apply at least two weeks before you fly.

Your passport must be valid for six months beyond your arrival with at least one blank page. Carry a printed copy of the e-visa approval; airlines ask for it at check-in. We send a checklist with every confirmed booking and chase you until it is done.

Health and vaccinations

Yellow fever: in April 2026 the Ministry of Health announced that vaccination certificates are no longer checked at ports of entry. The vaccine is still strongly recommended, some e-visa guidance still lists it, and neighbouring countries may ask for it, so we advise getting it and carrying the certificate.

Malaria is present year round across the country. Take prophylaxis as advised by your doctor, sleep under the nets we provide, and use repellent at dusk. Routine vaccines (hepatitis A and B, typhoid, tetanus) should be up to date.

Cotonou has good private clinics; the north has basic care. Every journey carries a first-aid kit and our office holds your insurance and emergency details. Travel insurance with medical evacuation is a condition of booking.

Money and mobile payments

The CFA franc is pegged to the euro, so your euro budget is predictable. Cash is still king outside Cotonou. ATMs in the main towns take Visa; Mastercard is patchier. Bring euros in cash to change rather than relying on cards.

Mobile money (MTN MoMo and Moov Money) is how Benin pays for everything. We can set you up with a local SIM and wallet on day one so you can pay markets, taxis and tips like a resident.

Tipping is appreciated and not expected. We suggest a daily amount for your driver in the itinerary document, so there is no awkwardness at the end.

Best time to visit

The dry season runs from November to March across the country. This is the time for the north: roads are open, the harmattan brings cool mornings and dusty golden light, and the animals of Pendjari gather at water from January.

The south has two rainy seasons, April to July and a shorter one in October. Rain comes in afternoon bursts rather than all day, the lagoons are full and green, and prices are lower. The coast and Ouidah are good year round.

January is the busiest month because of Vodun Days. Book that journey six months ahead. August, the yam festival and the green hills, is our favourite quiet month in the Collines.

Safety

Benin is one of the calmest countries in West Africa. The south and centre are relaxed; ordinary city sense applies in Cotonou at night. Our drivers never travel after dark on intercity roads.

The far north along the Burkina Faso and Niger borders carries a security advisory from most governments because of regional instability. Pendjari and the W are open, with a security presence, and we follow official advice and our park partners day by day. If a leg has to change, we tell you plainly and propose an alternative at no cost.

Getting there

Cotonou's Cadjehoun airport (COO) has direct flights from Paris, Brussels, Istanbul, Addis Ababa, Casablanca, Lomé, Abidjan and Lagos. From North America and Brazil the usual routes are through Paris, Brussels or Lisbon.

We meet every guest at the airport, whatever the hour, and the first night is always in Cotonou or on the coast so you start rested.

Overland from Togo or Nigeria is possible and we arrange it for travellers combining countries; allow time at the border.

Getting around

All our journeys travel in air-conditioned 4×4s with a driver who knows the road. The main north–south road is paved; park tracks and the Atakora are rough in places, which is part of the point.

Cotonou to Natitingou is a long day of around ten hours, so we split it. A domestic flight from the north runs on some days of the week; we use it when the schedule allows.

The zémidjan, the motorbike taxi in a yellow shirt, is how Cotonou moves. Try it for short hops with a helmet; we will show you how.

What to pack

Light, loose, long: cotton or linen that covers shoulders and knees for temples, palaces and villages. A scarf for women at ceremonies. Neutral colours for the parks; no camouflage, which is reserved for the army.

Good walking shoes, sandals, a hat, high-factor sun cream, repellent, a refillable bottle, a head torch, and a light rain shell outside the dry season. Binoculars for Pendjari.

Bring small gifts if you like, but ask your host before handing anything to children. Photographs of people and ceremonies always need permission; your host will ask for you.

Connectivity

4G is good in towns and along the main road, thin in the parks and the Atakora. A local SIM with data costs a few euros; we buy one for you on arrival if you wish. Messaging apps are how everyone keeps in touch.

Hotels on our journeys have Wi-Fi except the park lodges, where you are better off without it.